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All pictures and texts in this web page are the property of nomaallim.com. Any use of any part of those contents without the written consent of nomaallim.com shall be subject to legal procedures as per international and local laws in the concerned country. Using the name "nomaallim" or "nomaallim com" or "nomaallim.com" in the text describing the unauthorized copied content shall not constitute an exception and shall be sanctioned in accordance to the effective laws and proceedings.
BEFORE YOU START
DISCLAIMER:
Our pictorials are of informative nature and do illustrate works carried out by ourselves at our own premises for our own use and satisfaction. Readers who envisage to carry out similar works inspired by the below method shall do this at their own risks and liability. |
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Why to flush and replace the brake fluid: symptoms of aged brake fluid that has been left unreplaced for years
Brake fluid is a hydrophilic liquid that "catches" humidity and becomes contaminated with water along years.
This is indeed a very small quantity of water, but the presence of little water is enough to deteriorate the performance of the brake fluid as it results in a compressible oil / water mix (emulsion) also containing fine air bubbles.
Below are the symptoms of an aged brake fluid:
In case your brake pedal is getting firmer and harder to press, then you are experiencing a servo or vacuum issue, refer to the links at the bottom of this page to see how to diagnose and fix such problems.
This is indeed a very small quantity of water, but the presence of little water is enough to deteriorate the performance of the brake fluid as it results in a compressible oil / water mix (emulsion) also containing fine air bubbles.
Below are the symptoms of an aged brake fluid:
- Color of the brake fluid turns red and dark due to oxydation
- Brake pedal becomes less firm
- In extreme cases, your vehicle could pull to either left or right side upon braking at medium and high speeds
In case your brake pedal is getting firmer and harder to press, then you are experiencing a servo or vacuum issue, refer to the links at the bottom of this page to see how to diagnose and fix such problems.
The brake fluid in this Mitsubishi Lancer was never replaced for 155,000 Km. As a result of oxidation, it turned to dark brown and almost black. The brake pedal became spongy and elastic giving the impression of compressing some foam or sponge when pressing on it.
Check which brake fluid suits your vehicle.
It's mentioned on the cap, knowing that as a general rule DOT 4 fluids are required for all the recent vehicles.
Use DOT 3 brake fluid for older cars (1970s and 1980s).
Click below for more details about the brake fluids types:
It's mentioned on the cap, knowing that as a general rule DOT 4 fluids are required for all the recent vehicles.
Use DOT 3 brake fluid for older cars (1970s and 1980s).
Click below for more details about the brake fluids types:
Bleeding and replacing the brake fluid in one operation
Remove with your fingers the strainer found inside the brake fluid reservoir neck of the Mitsubishi Lancer, then use a large syringe to empty as much as you can the brake fluid reservoir:
Prepare the first brake cylinder by inserting the transparent tube into the bleeding screw and laying it down to the jar.
Follow the below order for the bleeding:
1- Rear Right brake
2- Rear Left brake
3- Front Right brake
4- Front Left brake
Follow the below order for the bleeding:
1- Rear Right brake
2- Rear Left brake
3- Front Right brake
4- Front Left brake
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Bleeding the brakes one by one with the help of a person inside the vehicle
Now the second operator is required and should sit inside the vehicle and open the windows to hear you.
Proceed as follows to bleed your brake fluid:
Proceed as follows to bleed your brake fluid:
- Loosen the brake bleeding screw just a little while instructing your helper to press the brake pedal with the engine off (first picture).
- The pedal should be pressed as slowly as possible till the end. It should take at least 3 seconds.
- DO NOT PRESS THE PEDAL FAST as this could result in the liquid emulsion at the bleed screw level.
- If it is too hard, loosen a bit more the bleeding screw.
- You will notice the brown liquid getting inside your transparent tube (second picture) up to the jar.
- Now your helper has to tell you he/she reached the end. Tighten the screw and tell him/her to release the pedal.
- THE PEDAL SHOULD NOT BE RELEASED prior to re-tightening the screw as this could pull air into the system.
- Repeat the above 4 to 6 times before moving to the next wheel.
- Replenish the brake fluid level in between two wheels (last picture).
- DO NOT FORGET TO DO SO to avoid pulling air into the brake master cylinder.
- Repeat the above on the remaining 3 wheels, following the brake bleeding order, then refill your brake fluid reservoir but keep the fluid level under the "MAX" mark of the tank.
Final checklist:
- Make sure you did refit the rubber caps to all four brake bleeding screws.
- You should have collected a significant quantity of liquid i.e. used at least 3/4 of the new liquid container contents.
- Refit the strainer and tighten well the tank cap.
- Turn On your engine and press the brake pedal twice prior to performing the test drive.
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