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Readers who envisage to carry out similar works inspired by the below method shall do this at their own risks and liability.
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General front end noise troubleshooting table
Listening carefully to the noise coming from the front end of your car can lead to the identification of a mechanical defect.
The front suspension, steering system and wheel hubs do include a few wear parts that need to be replaced upon the first symptoms.
Driving on bad or uneven roads, hitting a pothole or a walkway can accelerate the ageing of such parts.
Regularly inspect the ball joint of the lower control arm (and upper control arm when available), the stabilizer (stabiliser, anti-roll bar) and its drop links, the shock absorbers, MacPherson struts, steering box, steering links, etc. to keep your car safe and smooth.
Noises generated by such part result from either a:
The front suspension, steering system and wheel hubs do include a few wear parts that need to be replaced upon the first symptoms.
Driving on bad or uneven roads, hitting a pothole or a walkway can accelerate the ageing of such parts.
Regularly inspect the ball joint of the lower control arm (and upper control arm when available), the stabilizer (stabiliser, anti-roll bar) and its drop links, the shock absorbers, MacPherson struts, steering box, steering links, etc. to keep your car safe and smooth.
Noises generated by such part result from either a:
- rubber to rubber friction (creaking)
- metal to rubber friction (knocking)
- metal to metal friction (clunking, squeaking, humming)
Noise |
How & When It Is Heard |
Possible Causes |
How To Fix It |
Creaking |
Creaking noise is heard in winter upon crossing a speed bump |
1- Rubber parts of the upper strut mount (MacPherson suspension support) have dried out. 2- Rubber parts of the upper control arm silent blocks have dried out. |
Wash well the car then lubricate with white lithium grease or silicon spray lubricant |
Clunking |
Knocking noise heard on one side on low speeds and on uneven roads. Eventually heard only when the two wheels are not on the same level (see cause 3) |
1- Lower triangle (control arm) ball joint 2- Upper control arm (if any) ball joint 3- Stabilizer link (anti-roll bar drop link) 4- Shock absorber |
Use a crowbar to check any gap in the ball joints and your hand to test the stabilizer drop link. Replace the defective part. Replace both shock absorbers if one is found defective. |
Thud |
Knocking noise with a low frequency of occurrence and low sound frequency (bass). |
1- Rear engine support / link 2- Shock absorber seat (bumper) 3- Anti-roll bar (stabiliser) bushings 4- Side engine supports |
Visually inspect all parts and replace the defective ones. |
Knocking / Hammering |
Heard as if coming from the front of the driver and felt at the same time in the steering wheel. |
Normal on some vehicles with rack and pinion steering system, could increase however if the steering rack needs lubrication. |
Visually inspect the steering box bellows. Replace if defective while adding graphite grease for steering systems. |
Loud Rattling |
Heard on FWD vehicles when turning at low speeds. Increases with both vehicle speed and tighter turns. "Tac tac tac" like noise. |
Defective wheel drive shaft (Outer joint of the CV axle) |
Fix the outer joint of the CV axle or replace the whole drive shaft. |
Rumbling / Humming |
Heard at medium and high speeds. Increases with the vehicle speed, getting louder. |
Defective wheel bearing |
Replace the defective bearing |
Squeaking |
Occurs from time to time or constantly when braking |
1- Bad quality brake pads 2- Missing brake pads noise suppressors 3- Worn brake discs |
Replace your brake pads / Inspect and replace your brake discs upon the next brake pads replacement |