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All pictures and texts in this web page are the property of nomaallim.com. Any use of any part of those contents without the written consent of nomaallim.com shall be subject to legal procedures as per international and local laws in the concerned country. Using the name "nomaallim" or "nomaallim com" or "nomaallim.com" in the text describing the unauthorized copied content shall not constitute an exception and shall be sanctioned in accordance to the effective laws and proceedings.
BEFORE YOU START
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Note: The below works occurred on a Peugeot 5008 equipped with an PSA-BMW EP6 direct injection and turbocharged engine in its 156HP version. Works remain similar for other engines and identical for Citroen, Mini, Saab and Peugeot vehicles equipped with the same engine.
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DISCLAIMER:
Our pictorials are of informative nature and do illustrate works carried out by ourselves at our own premises for our own use and satisfaction. Readers who envisage to carry out similar works inspired by the below method shall do this at their own risks and liability. |
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Turbo vacuum actuator circuit symptoms
- Check engine light goes on
- Warning light goes on
- Loss of power
- Generation of fault codes in relation with low turbo output pressure
How a turbo vacuum line, actuator and solenoid valve work
The turbo is controlled by its waste gate valve.
The latter uses a vacuum actuator (left) fed from a vacuum pump (middle left) via a solenoid valve (middle right), the turbo regulation valve.
A vacuum tank serves as a buffer for ensuring a smooth control of the waste gate valve (not possible to have a good picture on this vehicle, it's the black box showing on the middle of the picture to the right)
The latter uses a vacuum actuator (left) fed from a vacuum pump (middle left) via a solenoid valve (middle right), the turbo regulation valve.
A vacuum tank serves as a buffer for ensuring a smooth control of the waste gate valve (not possible to have a good picture on this vehicle, it's the black box showing on the middle of the picture to the right)
Using a vacuum gauge for testing the turbo vacuum regulation
Vacuum is a pressure lower than the atmospheric pressure, called negative pressure.
Specific vacuum gauges for car diagnostic exist but you can also use vacuum gauges for pneumatic systems as it is the case here.
It is graduated from 0 to -1 (full vacuum).
You need to fit it with an accessory to which a rubber hose can be connected and that's it (see further below in the pictorial).
Specific vacuum gauges for car diagnostic exist but you can also use vacuum gauges for pneumatic systems as it is the case here.
It is graduated from 0 to -1 (full vacuum).
You need to fit it with an accessory to which a rubber hose can be connected and that's it (see further below in the pictorial).
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How to troubleshoot the turbo vacuum regulation system
Start by purchasing a hose connector of the same diameter than the largest vacuum connector in your vehicle.
This is usually the one connecting the servo brake vacuum hose to the vacuum pump (left).
Unplug it (middle) and match your connector (right). An 8 mm rubber hose in this case. Any air or fuel hose will do.
This is usually the one connecting the servo brake vacuum hose to the vacuum pump (left).
Unplug it (middle) and match your connector (right). An 8 mm rubber hose in this case. Any air or fuel hose will do.
The below shows the manufacturer's recommendations for the vacuum pump testing showing the maximum allowable time for the vacuum to reach a particular value. Engine should be hot for this test.
Step 1: test the brake vacuum outlet
Plug your vacuum gauge into the vacuum pump brake connector.
You may prepare your watch to count the seconds but a good pump will usually reach almost full vacuum in a second.
Ask someone to start the engine and observe the vacuum gauge.
In this case, it reached -0.98 bars in less than a second denoting no trouble on the brake outlet side.
Turn off the engine. It should remain as is for a while.
You may prepare your watch to count the seconds but a good pump will usually reach almost full vacuum in a second.
Ask someone to start the engine and observe the vacuum gauge.
In this case, it reached -0.98 bars in less than a second denoting no trouble on the brake outlet side.
Turn off the engine. It should remain as is for a while.
IMPORTANT: some non-permanent types of failures cannot be detected by the vacuum gauge. Visit our page for brake vacuum pump maintenance to learn more:
Step 2: test the turbo vacuum outlet
Start by removing all air hoses for an easier reach to the brake vacuum pump.
The smaller vacuum hose of the turbo control circuit is visible in the middle of the right picture:
The smaller vacuum hose of the turbo control circuit is visible in the middle of the right picture:
Change the vacuum gauge rubber hose to a smaller one (6 mm) and repeat the procedure while plugging the vacuum gauge into the turbo regulation vacuum outlet of the vacuum pump.
In this case, the vacuum gauge needle kept oscillating for several seconds and never reached the full vacuum like on the brake outlet side.
Upon turning off the engine, it started immediately moving towards zero.
No doubt the check valve inside the turbo vacuum connector is damaged (see our "brake vacuum pump maintenance" page for details)
Upon turning off the engine, it started immediately moving towards zero.
No doubt the check valve inside the turbo vacuum connector is damaged (see our "brake vacuum pump maintenance" page for details)
Step 3: test the vacuum tank, turbo regulation valve and turbo vacuum lines:
If your vacuum pump failed the above test, you may attempt to clean it or decide to replace it with a new one.
Pour some engine oil of the same quality than the one you use for your engine on the new vacuum pump drive prior to assembling it.
Pour some engine oil of the same quality than the one you use for your engine on the new vacuum pump drive prior to assembling it.
To understand how this test works, plug your scanner into your vehicle and go to the page showing you the waste gate valve control OCR.
You will notice it is close to the maximum (85%, almost closed, vacuum force needed) when engine is idling and goes down to 23% (almost open, no vacuum needed) as soon as you press on your gas pedal.
You will notice it is close to the maximum (85%, almost closed, vacuum force needed) when engine is idling and goes down to 23% (almost open, no vacuum needed) as soon as you press on your gas pedal.
Unplug the turbo regulation vacuum line from the turbo waste gate valve actuator.
Plug the vacuum gauge in.
Plug the vacuum gauge in.
Now therefore, the tests...
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More turbo diagnostics tips
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